Selecting Shuttles & Accessories
Boat Shuttles
Quills and Bobbins
Rug Shuttles
Bobbin Winders
Stainless Steel Reeds
Raddles
Temples
Warping Reels, table and floor models
Spool Holder
Umbrella Swifts
Bobbin Lace Pillows
Boat Shuttles
Shuttle Sizes and Shapes
Choose your boat shuttle before you purchase bobbins or quills and before you purchase a bobbin winder so that they are all
compatible. Choose a boat shuttle which is comfortable for your hand. The smaller ones are the easiest to catch and throw,
but if you weave wide fabrics, choose one which is somewhat longer. Thick shuttles may be clumsy to catch and throw. Heavy
shuttles are more likely to break warp threads they may hit, but will be easier to throw through a wide shed. Shuttles with
very blunt tips may not travel through the shed as well as more pointed ones.
Double Bobbin Shuttle
If you frequently purchase fine threads and double them for color blending or for pattern weaving, consider purchasing a
double bobbin shuttle. It is easier to wind two bobbins than to wind two threads on one bobbin. When using one bobbin you may
find that the two threads will become different lengths as you weave. If you use two bobbins in a double bobbin shuttle, the
threads will not twist and it is easier to maintain the tension.
Solid Bottoms, Open bottoms and Rollers
Boat shuttles come with a solid bottom, an open bottom or a bottom with rollers. The solid bottom allows you to put fur or
velvet inside the shuttle cavity to control the tension on the bobbin. This is helpful if the weft comes off too fast on a
narrow warp. A solid bottom will always be a smooth surface for the shuttle to glide across the warp. The open bottom allows
you to wind a little more on the bobbin, but too much will cause it to catch on warp threads. An open bottom allows you to
stop the bobbin from the bottom with your finger. Rollers will help the shuttle travel across a wide warp, but they are not
very good when there are few warp threads per inch or when the bottom of the shed is not even.
Damask Shuttle If you have a drawloom or weave with narrow sheds, consider purchasing a damask shuttle. They are only about 1/2" tall and will weave through very small sheds. They are useful for weaving on table looms, double weave and pick up weaves. It is best to use quills with damask shuttles.
Here is a picture of the Folke Samualson weighted shuttle.
Quills and Bobbins
Bobbins have sides so that the yarn will not slip off the ends. They can be easier for beginners, but you must still wind them carefully. The weft is wound quickly back and forth with some tension to make a compact tight package. A bobbin made for another shuttle may not work in your shuttle as it may not fit or turn properly. The sides of the bobbin can sometimes catch inside the bobbin cavity of the shuttle. In this case, it is probably too long and it may be better to use quills. Quills do not have sides, are made of cardboard or can be made by the weaver from paper. Quills can be used in any shuttle. The quill length should be 1" less than the length of the spindle inside the shuttle cavity. Quills turn on the spindle better than some bobbins and are much quieter than bobbins.
For instructions on winding paper quill, go to FAQ.Rug Shuttles
Ski shuttles and double ski shuttles can hold much more weft material than a boat shuttle and are appropriate for weaving rugs. You must unwind the weft from them as you weave, so they should not be longer than is practical. If you do not fill them too full, they can be thrown across a wide warp. They should not be too tall to travel easily through an ordinary shed. Stick shuttles cannot be thrown, but are less expensive and very useful for narrow warps and vertical looms.
Bobbin Winders
Winders come with either the fine spindle or the thicker spindle which is made for the larger American bobbins. The fine
spindle is more versatile as you can also wind the larger bobbins on them. Just put a cardboard quill on the spindle and then
put the larger bobbin on top of the quill. It usually is a perfect fit. If you want to weave with fine threads, the thinner
shuttles, thinner quills and fine spindle bobbin winder might be better. They wind very fast and you can wind more thread
onto the finer quills.
Stainless Steel Reeds
Weavers generally need more than one reed if weaving a variety of warps and setts. The most common sizes are 12 and 15 dent reeds. Rug weavers may use 6, 8 and 10 dent reeds. Fabric weavers may want 12 and 15 dent reeds. Reeds can be used as raddles when warping a loom. Reeds such as 8 and 10 are useful for this. If you also have metric reeds, you will have more choices for the sett of the warp.
We can cut reeds in any length up to 240cm. 5 inch reeds are also available. All are stainless steel.
Raddles
Many weavers use the loom reed to spread the warp to it's full width for beaming their warp. You can also use a raddle to spread the warp out. Raddle spaces should be less than one inch. It is not recommended to use raddles with 1" spaces without lease sticks, as the threads tend to bunch up and not lie smooth for the beaming the warp.
Temples
There are metal and wooden temples (stretchers) and they are used on all widths of weaving, for all but tapestry weaving. The wooden ones are recommended for most weaving. They are made in many sizes to work within a range of widths, such as 8"-10" to longer ones like 40"-66". The longer ones are also thicker and wider. Temples work best on widths which are between the widths given. So the 40"-66" temple works well on widths from about 41"-65". Weavers generally purchase more than one temple.
To use a temple, you must place it in the weaving as soon as there is enough weft woven to hold it. Do not wait until you have narrowing of the width of the weaving. To set the length of the temple, place it up side down on the warp beside the reed. Extend the temple to the width of the warp, letting the wooden edges extend beyond the warp about 1/8" and the teeth just inside the selvage threads. Place the locking pin into the holes, putting the pin through the nearest hole in the center section. Place the temple right side up on the weaving. Push the metal holding plate to the edge of the temple to make the temple fold. To place the temple in the weaving, put the teeth on the left into the left selvage at the very edge of the selvage. Then set the teeth on the other end of the temple, into the right selvage. Push the center of the temple down and slide the metal plate toward the center to hold the temple flat. Do not force it. If it is difficult to push it down, remove the temple, pull out the pin and select the next hole to make it shorter.
Warping Reels, table and floor models
Warping boards or frames are less expensive and more portable than reels, but reels will make much longer warps, are more
comfortable and less tiring to use. The reels will also wind a longer warp more accurately and much faster. Both can be
taken apart for storage and have removable dowels for ease of taking the warp off.
Warping boards are usually 1 yard square and are most comfortable if mounted on a wall. It should be at eye level so that you can see any mistakes when they happen. It is easy to skip a dowel or reverse the direction of the thread on the wrong dowel. Reels prevent these kinds of mistakes, as they spin around until you reach the end. If you purchase a large reel, you can still make short warps on it.
Reels are free standing and are either placed on a low table or on the floor. They are a three dimensional frame with four sections and are turned on a central metal pipe for winding the warp. The turning is very smooth and requires only a gentle push. They are usually from 2 to 4 yards or meters around and fold to take less space when not in use. A cross piece for winding the cross is removable and the dowel at the other end has many possible positions. So, a warp of any length can be made. A second cross piece is available for making a second cross. For most weaving one cross is sufficient, but sometimes the second cross is used for making warps double length so that two bouts can be wound at the same time. For winding a warp with 2, 3 or more threads at a time, the reel will be easier to use than a warping board.
The number of yards you can wind is determined by how close together the revolutions are. So the number of yards possible is relative. When the revolutions are closer together, you may need to wind more slowly. The table reel can wind up to a 30 yard warp. The floor model can wind a 60 yard warp.
Spool Holder
The spool holder will hold up to 12 spools of thread for winding your warp. It is 38 1/2" tall, and has screw eyes on the
top so that the spools unwind smoothly.
Glimakra also makes and we sell a two spool holder. These are very simple and useful if you need a smaller and less expensive item. Contact us for details and further information.
Umbrella Swifts
Umbrella Swifts are made from birch, in two sizes, the regular size which holds skeins up to 72" around, and the large
swift which holds skeins up to 100" around. They are constructed and finished to get the most appropriate surface for the
yarn.
These are the original Swedish made swifts and not an imitation.
The ball winder is used for making balls of yarn.
Bobbin Lace Pillows
The Glimakra bobbin lace pillow has a 9 1/2" roller in the center. On the bottom left of the photo is a bobbin holder to
use on your thread bobbin winder. This attachment lets you wind the lace bobbins on your bobbin winder. The bobbins are 4"
long. These are very nicely made and you will enjoy lace making with them.
